fashion


A model presents a creation by Tsumori Chisato
© AFP Pierre Verdy

PARIS (AFP) – And Stefano Pilati unveiled a fresh chic look for Yves Saint Laurent under the huge glass ceiling of the 19th century Grand Palais, in black and white gingham, green and violet.

On a catwalk carpeted by a sweet-smelling meadow where violet flowers grew, fishnet stockinged models wore a little red cardigan or twin set, or gingham trench, with a jaunty beret and big geometric-shaped necklace.

But the YSL woman can also choose from more fluid outfits, such as a puff-ball skirt or a bouncy off-the-shoulder white pleated dress punctuated by violet bands running over the shoulders.


A model presents a creation by Italian designer Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent
© AFP Pierre Verdy

Singers Janet Jackson and Lenny Kravitz, who have also been guests at other shows here earlier in the week, as well as French actress Catherine Deneuve, were seated in the front row.

Croatian designer Ivana Omazic used lots of sheer white fabric to bring a luminosity to her ready-to-wear for spring-summer 2007 at French fashion house Celine, but tossed in occasional opacity and layering.

Lightness was also captured in her chosen shades — stone, bone, chalk, opal, mist, champagne and nude — and freshness of the crisp fabrics, such as the cotton silk gabardine for a trench.

The Zagreb-native, who took over as Celine’s artistic director last year, mentioned “The Unbearable Lightness of Being”, Milan Kundera’s 1984 novel, in her style notes. “Everything lies in the interplay of strength and weakness,” the notes said.


A model presents a creation by Croatian designer Ivana Omazic for Celine
© AFP Francois Guillot

But the clothes presented a strong image of a modern woman through its cuts and details; a grey satiny dress was both soft in its apparent simplicity and strong in its square cut across the shoulders.

A youthful vibe and glamour pulsated at Emanuel Ungaro where Norway’s Peter Dundas mixed up polka dots, animal prints, stripes and a host of patterns for a collection with a touch of couture.

Acid green, fluorescent yellow and iridescent fuchsia burst on to the long catwalk in a glass-fronted pavillion along the bank of the River Seine, bedecked with lush green vegetation.

Although eclectic, Dundas kept his foot firmly on the glamour pedal — a white feather dress had hand-painted black polka dots, while a stunning white circular jacket was so rounded, full and airy it seemed to float off like a bubble.


A model presents a creation for Ungaro by Peter Dundas
© AFP Francois Guillot

Japan’s Tsumori Chisato unveiled a highly-imaginative and creative collection that was also bursting with colour and ideas in detail, shape and prints for a varied fun and funky range.

It ran from white bloomers to a dress in red and black stripes with an outer layer hanging open at the front as if unzipped to the waist and a cinched checked blazer with emphasized lapels.

At Leonard, the style programme said the collection was a “homage to the dress” turning out a large selection of ladylike frocks for the beach, city or elegant soiree.

Toying with volumes, the French fashion house contrasted sharp, even cubic, with softly rounded shapes, while a peach smock dress had at once puffed and structured sleeves.

But the house is known for its prints, especially of orchids, which were jazzed up by thin and wide stripes and geometric waves, in an overall palette of soft pastels, jade, caramel, earth brown and a stunning blend of black, white and grey.


A model presents a creation for Ungaro by Peter Dundas
© AFP Francois Guillot

Thick bands of sequins added sparkle to long print dresses.

Meanwhile, high-waisted shorts are a must for next summer at Cacharel where a pair of white combi-shorts swung out to begin the upbeat show, followed by cuffed or A-line shorts.

Graphic cuts were juxtaposed with bell sleeves, subtly sculpted silhouettes or slightly voluminous ones, such as for trousers, in black, white, mustard, toffee and earthy tones.

Dresses came in lush ‘liquidy metal’ fabrics, paired with geeky ankle socks and see-thru heeled sandals.

Karl Lagerfeld unveils his latest collection for Chanel on Friday, followed later in the day by Christian Lacroix and Alexander McQueen. Paris fashion week runs until Sunday.

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